JFcustom's FOAM files. Hi, After a basic but effective five- days- built Iron Man Mark IV, I wanted to improve and share my speed- building technics to allow everyone having kids and a full- time job to be still able to build a full foam suit in far less than a month. And it begins with releasing some suitable *. By suitable I don't mean at all that the other guys who unfold for foam should better drop their work right through the gogs. By suitable I mean that the templates below can only be used under certain restriction of material : at first you must use some foam mats, or foam roll, or whatever else, much larger than a common paper sheet. Then, you may use some cheap foam, because these templates generate a impressive amount of waste. And at last, the more your foam is flexible, the more easy will be your build. This point depends mainly of the thickness of this foam. 2’ Star Michael Rooker Teaches FANDOM the Yondu Whistle. Paper models, card models, papercraft database. This page is a collection of links to the website to paper model and papercraft. I would recommend somewhere between 5 and 1. The way I unfold allows each curve and bulge- shaped effect to be obtained without the need of a heat gun. It has occurred that these templates work fairly well with corrugated cardboard, and also, through proper tweaking, for aluminium panels. But if you plan to use some sheets of foam of one square foot, or one inch thick, or almost unbendable, you won't be able to use these templates. About flexibility, here's a quick illustration of what you'll often have to do with your foam (yea I know, it's paper on the photos, but it's only an illustration) : This thread aims to gather the models I've unfolded with both . You may notice that some esthetical details are often missing, details like grids, holes, screws, notches, indentations.. They have been removed from the templates to build faster, and are called to be added on your own once the armor part is built. Every missing detail can always be implemented afterward. The final shape remains unchanged, you won’t have any . At the end we obtain some pepakura files with less and larger pieces, foam flaps for stronger and discrete overlap gluing, and in one word a better compatibility with foam shapeability. Well at least I assume it is.. Do not go thinking so far that I'm plenty of buckets full of free time to work on these files, because it's not the truth at all. Intro: Pepakura Helmets. Hey,I make lots of things, out of allsorts of materials,but recently ive done a few helmets,I've done a few at different skill levels and I. And in order to prevent my wife from strangling me, I promised to add this link. A big thank to you, without your work all of us would still keep saving the world in underpants. If it happens you find here a(n other) file that is not fully credited, please contact me. All male suits are default scaled for a 6' guy.
It helps to start with a good template to ensure the shapes will be correct and fit together the way you want. Find several reference pictures of what you are trying. Darth Vader's helmet/breath mask blueprints. The mask itself went halfway around Vader's head. The mask's appearance was given a similar appearance to a skull in. UpdateStar is compatible with Windows platforms. UpdateStar has been tested to meet all of the technical requirements to be compatible with Windows 10, 8.1, Windows 8. Here we are : robo. Iron Man Mark 4/6 - unfold for foam by JFcustom. I've colorized here where to connect the parts together : And here, how I connected collar plates to the top of the back/chest : anyway, it's the way I did.. The result is a one- piece torso that you put on just like a T- shirt. Iron Man mark. 7 by Karol Siemieniago - minor edit and foam unfold JFcustom. Incredibly both movie- looking and simple to build. Dark. Side. 50. 1st's Iron Man Mark VII - v. JFcustom. I have to reedit some files from the beginning for this suit to be doubt- proof and fully workable. I'll should have join a readme file for this one, because I think that some tips need to be explain before you drive straight against the wall.. Note that gloves, brace, collar, collar plate, and neck are missing from Mk. VII package. You can pick them from Mk. Eyeof. Sauron's Iron Man Extremis - unfold for foam by JFcustom. Iron Man Extremis v. JFcustom. rarclassic iron man provided by Eye. Of. Sauron - foam unfold JFcustom. Marvel, Zabanna, and Ben. Streeper's Iron Man Ultimate V2 - unfold for foam by JFcustom. Link to the rar file in the post by CSM- 1. AM Tribes Ascend - heavy armor - JFcustom foam files. Robo. 36. 87's War Machine - unfold for foam by JFcustom. All included but heavy weapons. Helmet design by Stark. Iron Patriot by Jackieisrockin - foam unfold JFcustom. Briareos by C2/Lord Harnor/Dung. Beetle/JFcustom - foam unfold JFcustom. Guyver the Bioboosted Armor - FOAM edit and unfold JFcustom. At last. Full from head to toes. The 6 tubes on the sides of the chest, as well as the spheres on the helmet are left to be freehanded. Predator - foam edit & unfold JFcustom. Cyberman - foam unfold JFcustom. BSD's Rex Phase. II - foam ufold JFcustom. Dancin. Please refer to Dancin. Vanquish ARS provided by Tumbucu. JFcustom. A huge painting work to make this one look good, but I think it can worth the time spent. The files in the rar may be updated without warning during the coming days. Thor - unfold for foam by JFcustom. Helmet model by Dung. I don't know who created the other parts.. Pepper Potts Rescue Armor - foam edit JFcustom. Credits : Back and torso modeled by Eirth @4. Arms from a Halo mk. VI modeled by Robogenesis @4. Helmet is IM comic version from Eye. Of. Sauron. All other parts provided by Eye. Of. Sauron's Extremis suit. All of these post- edited to fit a woman's body. The suit is scaled for a 1m. Fusion - JFC foam. Mind the scale before printing. Daft Punk - Cama. Guy. Man Helmet - Foam edit and unfold JFcustom. Daft Punk - Dung. Beetle's Thomas Helmet - Foam edit and unfold JFcustom. JFcustom. pdo. Few accessories that come along with the Predator suit : weapons : predator- battledisc. Build several ones with a slightly changing scale to get a realistic full spine. To be sure to obtain a well curved horn, you may want to face them up first and glue them point by point, this way : This process should be applied to glue correctly any long side in general. You may also applie these process if needed : thin the foam on the gluing area, or plainly cut up your pieces of foam without caring about the dot- lined overlap you'll see on the pep files. Illustration : The dotted lines along the borders of the paper templates are here to delimitate - the real outter side of the suit (in grey) from - the strip that will recieve glue and will be overlapped (in blue) by another piece of foam. If you're using your 1. I've been asked if I had used some 2, 3 or 5 mm when building Sharkhead's helmet, in fact it was some 7mm foam. The illusion was due to the fact that I used several ways to snap the pieces of foam together, depending of the rendering I expected at the surface. Low, medium, heigh, and progressive step : Gluing pieces side to side will probably be less strong, but will it be not strong enough ? No dammage here so far. One simple thing also is you don't have to mix the dotted lines that represent a mountain or a valley, with the dotted lines that delimit a gluing area. But it might not be much harder on the templates than on the picture below : In case of doubt, always refer to the 3. D view of Pepakura viewer.. I've also been asked to show the way I translate the dotlines from the paper patterns to the inner side of the foam pieces. We assume a suit is always symetric, we have only one paper template (let's say it's the right side one) and we are at the point we've already managed to cut up two mirrored foam pieces from it. So, here I lay down the right paper template over the inner side of the left foam piece. With a pen I punch a hole at every strategical point, in order to locate the placement of the lines. When removing the paper, I see the dots my pen made. From them I can draw the same lines onto my foam. Now, I flip my paper mask and lay it over the other foam part, the right side one. The printed side of the paper is hidden, I can't see my dot lines anymore but I don't care : I still have my previous dot holes. I use my pen once more to mark the placement of these holes. Now I can bin my paper pattern.. My printed lines are accurately transposed, I can cut my hills and valleys.. To fill the remaining gaps, and unexpected valleys, and overall every 'factory- dammages', I don't think any sandable product can go well. Because foam is flexible, and something you can sand is not. As a result your join will keep on breaking at every bending. I've successfully tryed a simple and common alternative : the silicone bathroom mastic- glue- gun. It sticks, it fills, it's slick and smooth, and it can be shaped. The only thing is you must paint it or primer it with any spray you want before it's dry, or nothing will further hold on to this stuff. Then, cut away the top and left margins of each of them, and then tape all of them together to obtain a laaarge single page. Then, cut out your paper pieces just like they are. If these pieces are too large for your foam hight or width, you'll have to choose between cutting your piece of paper in smaller parts to match your foam sheets size, of seaming multiple foam sheets to obtain a single and large enough foam sheet to match your paper piece size. Step by step : Be sure to set A4 or Letter properly, or you'll run the risk to print outside the paper. You should tape the sheets before cutting the patterns : 1. This way you can instantly notice if something's wrong before cuting and before taping, and It prevents both hazardous taping and multiple pieces parts spreading. Now, tips. Classical cardboard peping is fantastic. Cut all of the pieces, glue them as shown on pepviewer, and from Gabon to Peru you'll get exactly the same shaped armor part. Foam peping doesn't goes exactly the same, since you use an elastic and springy mat. However it can be bent and stretched as you like, and it has a practical thickness ! Sharp cutting and clean gluing will make the difference between Iron Man and Jabba the Hutt. So here are some simple tips I used (glue is blue) : Cut all your foam parts first with no particular angle, some quite right angles would go well, and then, only while assembling, you can adjust inclination edge after edge. The idea : The practice : The result (don't ask, yes it's another piece) : It's simple as possible : each time the surface of the armor makes an angular outward inflection (not a simple curve, but an real palpable angle), you must make the angled cuts. Halo Costume and Prop Maker Community.
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